The Hammam

Last week was my first time at the hammam, the public bathhouses in Morocco. My host mother and sister took me and showed me the ropes! Most Moroccans go to the hammam once a week for a deep clean and take brief showers as needed otherwise. I'm still trying to get used to this! But my first trip to the hammam was very cool.

We left the house in the evening, which meant the hammam was less crowded. On the way, we stopped at a small shop to buy soap and shampoo. We bought a special brown soap that most people use at the hammam, that comes in a form that feels like a more solid version of vaseline. The hammam we went to had three rooms: one for dressing where we could also leave our stuff, and two for the actual bathing. Some hammams have designated cold, medium, and hot rooms. At this one, the two rooms were both medium, though still very warm. Most women wear underwear only, and some bring their small children (even little boys), which was a lot to get used to!

The first step is to stake out a space. This was fairly easy since our timing was good, but I could see how difficult it must be at peak times on the weekends. We set up mats on the floor and filled up about ten huge buckets of hot water at the common tap. We started with the special brown soap, and then scrubbed thoroughly with rough gloves until I had exfoliated far more than I thought was possible! The exfoliation process itself takes about an hour-- our whole trip took nearly three hours. After shampooing and shaving (yes, Moroccan women shave too), we did a final soap and scrub with regular soap (a Dove bar of soap, for example). I don't think I have ever felt so clean! The hammam costs 9 dirhams, about a dollar, but for a few dollars extra, you can get someone to scrub you or give you a massage! I think I'll try that next time!

Around Rabat

This weekend, I worked on exploring Rabat. I am determined to venture out into the rest of the country soon, but for now I am trying to see everything in Rabat! We started with the Kasbah des Oudayas. The fort was built a long time ago to keep the pirate city of Rabat-Sale safe from vengeful European navies. Now it houses a beautiful garden, café, and museum. We walked the garden, pictures below, and sat in the café overlooking the intersection of the Bouregreg River and the Atlantic Ocean. Sipping Moroccan mint tea and eating a coconut macaroon, I didn't feel much like a pirate, but they certainly had a good vantage point for watching incoming ships.  

After the tranquility of the Kasbah, we walked along the Rue de Consuls, the main street for tourists and shopping in Rabat. The stalls are filled with shoes in every style, rugs in every color, traditional Moroccan dresses, and Western-style leather jackets. The smell of leather permeates the market, with scents of spices wafting by. Rue de Consuls is loud with the voices of shopkeepers making conversation and shoppers debating the wares. I had to restrain myself from buying everything! I will definitely return!

On Sunday, we saw the Unfinished Mosque of Yacoub al-Mansour, started in the 12th century, but left unfinished because of the king's untimely death. Now all that remains is the columns and minaret, their potential unfulfilled. Next to the unfinished mosque is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, built in 1962, which holds the remains of the first Moroccan king after the French officially left Morocco. The tile work is phenomenal, with every detail carefully thought out-- even the ceiling, pictured below, is beautiful. The design is both stately and graceful, with classic Andalusian influence. Funnily enough, it was actually built by a Vietnamese architect! The two worlds collide!

In the afternoon, we ventured to Chellah, the site of Roman ruins from the first century BCE and the ruins of a 14th century Arab necropolis. The layers of ruins from such different periods of time are fascinating. The site is a gorgeous intermingling of gardens and ruins, with plenty of space for exploring. For just a 10 dirham entry fee (about a dollar), it might make a perfect spot to study on a sunny day!

Where Oranges Are Lemons

I have finally met my host family, and started the home stay! They are so nice and welcoming, I know I will have a good experience. My mother came to pick me up from the CCCL (the Center for Cross-Cultural Learning, where our program is based), wearing a beautiful aqua djellaba, the traditional Moroccan dress. She doesn't speak any English, but has been insistent in saying "kuli, kuli"-- "eat, eat!" We eat a lot of bread and other grains, and I love the bread with chocolate sauce that we eat for breakfast! Yesterday was Friday, the Muslim holy day. In Morocco, this means a special couscous lunch, which is really delicious. My host sister Mounia does the cooking. I have three other siblings, all in their 20s and 30s. My other host sister, Sukayna, speaks a handful of words in English, which is always comforting to hear. My host brother Muhammad speaks great English, which he says he learned from just his computer and phone. I wish I could do that with Arabic! But he works nights as a security guard, so I don't see him very often. My other host brother, Ahmed, doesn't live in the house, and I've only seen him once. My host father is very nice, and keeps trying to speak French with me-- I wish I could speak it! We mostly spend time in the living room watching TV. I'm now hooked on three different soap operas! I'm fortunate enough to have my own small room, though I spend all my time in the living room. Below is a picture.

For dessert after lunch and dinner, we eat oranges. Last night, I managed to ask what the word for "orange" is in darija, the Moroccan dialect of Arabic, only to find out that it is "limon!" The most difficult challenge I have faced so far is communication (and using a Turkish toilet, but that's getting easier!) I took two years of Arabic class at Columbia where I learned Fus'ha, or Modern Standard Arabic. Here in Morocco, everyone speaks darija, the Moroccan dialect of Arabic. Though the two languages are similar, I definitely feel challenged. We have had two classes of "Survival Arabic" to learn phrases in darija like "My room is too cold" and "Do you have a shower?" I look forward to being able to have a real conversation with my host family, which I will be able to by the end of the home stay, insha'allah.

My room!

My family has half of the second floor of the house, and this is the view from our part

The entrance to the shared house

Orientation

From navigating the city to navigating my first Arabic class, this week has been all about orientation. My program, SIT, has given us a lecture on every conceivable worry! Though I'm fortunate enough to have had the experience of studying abroad in a developing country already and traveling a lot, these experiences are new for many of the 62 students in SIT programs in Rabat. The staff here are very welcoming and helpful. We even got a lecture on how to negotiate with street vendors! Though I haven't taken on any big negotiations, I think I should do well after all the practice I got in Vietnam!

 

One challenging topic has been street harassment. Although I was a little nervous about it before getting here, we have discussed at length. Generally, it exists only in the form of catcalls and whistles, as in many other cities around the world. Physical contact is very rare. Both Moroccan women and Westerners are targeted. In addition to the process of socialization, we discussed some other reasons for street harassment. High unemployment, especially among Moroccan youth, leads to young people hanging out on the street with little to do. It can also be difficult for men and women to meet potential romantic partners, and some men and even women regard this as a friendly way to meet. However, as with every other issue in Morocco, the issue of street harassment is being hotly debated in the public sphere. I have yet to experience any bothersome street harassment. I look forward to discussing more of these difficult issues in class.

 

 

Ceiling of the CCCL (Center for Cross-Cultural Learning, where our program is based)

View from the roof of the CCCL

Moroccan teachers protesting the state's refusal to pay them enough

Shaaria' Mohammed Khaamis, the main street in Rabat

The CCCL had a welcoming dinner for us in the lobby of the main building, which is 18th century traditional Andalusian/ Moroccan architecture