The Hammam

Last week was my first time at the hammam, the public bathhouses in Morocco. My host mother and sister took me and showed me the ropes! Most Moroccans go to the hammam once a week for a deep clean and take brief showers as needed otherwise. I'm still trying to get used to this! But my first trip to the hammam was very cool.

We left the house in the evening, which meant the hammam was less crowded. On the way, we stopped at a small shop to buy soap and shampoo. We bought a special brown soap that most people use at the hammam, that comes in a form that feels like a more solid version of vaseline. The hammam we went to had three rooms: one for dressing where we could also leave our stuff, and two for the actual bathing. Some hammams have designated cold, medium, and hot rooms. At this one, the two rooms were both medium, though still very warm. Most women wear underwear only, and some bring their small children (even little boys), which was a lot to get used to!

The first step is to stake out a space. This was fairly easy since our timing was good, but I could see how difficult it must be at peak times on the weekends. We set up mats on the floor and filled up about ten huge buckets of hot water at the common tap. We started with the special brown soap, and then scrubbed thoroughly with rough gloves until I had exfoliated far more than I thought was possible! The exfoliation process itself takes about an hour-- our whole trip took nearly three hours. After shampooing and shaving (yes, Moroccan women shave too), we did a final soap and scrub with regular soap (a Dove bar of soap, for example). I don't think I have ever felt so clean! The hammam costs 9 dirhams, about a dollar, but for a few dollars extra, you can get someone to scrub you or give you a massage! I think I'll try that next time!

Around Rabat

This weekend, I worked on exploring Rabat. I am determined to venture out into the rest of the country soon, but for now I am trying to see everything in Rabat! We started with the Kasbah des Oudayas. The fort was built a long time ago to keep the pirate city of Rabat-Sale safe from vengeful European navies. Now it houses a beautiful garden, café, and museum. We walked the garden, pictures below, and sat in the café overlooking the intersection of the Bouregreg River and the Atlantic Ocean. Sipping Moroccan mint tea and eating a coconut macaroon, I didn't feel much like a pirate, but they certainly had a good vantage point for watching incoming ships.  

After the tranquility of the Kasbah, we walked along the Rue de Consuls, the main street for tourists and shopping in Rabat. The stalls are filled with shoes in every style, rugs in every color, traditional Moroccan dresses, and Western-style leather jackets. The smell of leather permeates the market, with scents of spices wafting by. Rue de Consuls is loud with the voices of shopkeepers making conversation and shoppers debating the wares. I had to restrain myself from buying everything! I will definitely return!

On Sunday, we saw the Unfinished Mosque of Yacoub al-Mansour, started in the 12th century, but left unfinished because of the king's untimely death. Now all that remains is the columns and minaret, their potential unfulfilled. Next to the unfinished mosque is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, built in 1962, which holds the remains of the first Moroccan king after the French officially left Morocco. The tile work is phenomenal, with every detail carefully thought out-- even the ceiling, pictured below, is beautiful. The design is both stately and graceful, with classic Andalusian influence. Funnily enough, it was actually built by a Vietnamese architect! The two worlds collide!

In the afternoon, we ventured to Chellah, the site of Roman ruins from the first century BCE and the ruins of a 14th century Arab necropolis. The layers of ruins from such different periods of time are fascinating. The site is a gorgeous intermingling of gardens and ruins, with plenty of space for exploring. For just a 10 dirham entry fee (about a dollar), it might make a perfect spot to study on a sunny day!

Where Oranges Are Lemons

I have finally met my host family, and started the home stay! They are so nice and welcoming, I know I will have a good experience. My mother came to pick me up from the CCCL (the Center for Cross-Cultural Learning, where our program is based), wearing a beautiful aqua djellaba, the traditional Moroccan dress. She doesn't speak any English, but has been insistent in saying "kuli, kuli"-- "eat, eat!" We eat a lot of bread and other grains, and I love the bread with chocolate sauce that we eat for breakfast! Yesterday was Friday, the Muslim holy day. In Morocco, this means a special couscous lunch, which is really delicious. My host sister Mounia does the cooking. I have three other siblings, all in their 20s and 30s. My other host sister, Sukayna, speaks a handful of words in English, which is always comforting to hear. My host brother Muhammad speaks great English, which he says he learned from just his computer and phone. I wish I could do that with Arabic! But he works nights as a security guard, so I don't see him very often. My other host brother, Ahmed, doesn't live in the house, and I've only seen him once. My host father is very nice, and keeps trying to speak French with me-- I wish I could speak it! We mostly spend time in the living room watching TV. I'm now hooked on three different soap operas! I'm fortunate enough to have my own small room, though I spend all my time in the living room. Below is a picture.

For dessert after lunch and dinner, we eat oranges. Last night, I managed to ask what the word for "orange" is in darija, the Moroccan dialect of Arabic, only to find out that it is "limon!" The most difficult challenge I have faced so far is communication (and using a Turkish toilet, but that's getting easier!) I took two years of Arabic class at Columbia where I learned Fus'ha, or Modern Standard Arabic. Here in Morocco, everyone speaks darija, the Moroccan dialect of Arabic. Though the two languages are similar, I definitely feel challenged. We have had two classes of "Survival Arabic" to learn phrases in darija like "My room is too cold" and "Do you have a shower?" I look forward to being able to have a real conversation with my host family, which I will be able to by the end of the home stay, insha'allah.

My room!

My family has half of the second floor of the house, and this is the view from our part

The entrance to the shared house

Orientation

From navigating the city to navigating my first Arabic class, this week has been all about orientation. My program, SIT, has given us a lecture on every conceivable worry! Though I'm fortunate enough to have had the experience of studying abroad in a developing country already and traveling a lot, these experiences are new for many of the 62 students in SIT programs in Rabat. The staff here are very welcoming and helpful. We even got a lecture on how to negotiate with street vendors! Though I haven't taken on any big negotiations, I think I should do well after all the practice I got in Vietnam!

 

One challenging topic has been street harassment. Although I was a little nervous about it before getting here, we have discussed at length. Generally, it exists only in the form of catcalls and whistles, as in many other cities around the world. Physical contact is very rare. Both Moroccan women and Westerners are targeted. In addition to the process of socialization, we discussed some other reasons for street harassment. High unemployment, especially among Moroccan youth, leads to young people hanging out on the street with little to do. It can also be difficult for men and women to meet potential romantic partners, and some men and even women regard this as a friendly way to meet. However, as with every other issue in Morocco, the issue of street harassment is being hotly debated in the public sphere. I have yet to experience any bothersome street harassment. I look forward to discussing more of these difficult issues in class.

 

 

Ceiling of the CCCL (Center for Cross-Cultural Learning, where our program is based)

View from the roof of the CCCL

Moroccan teachers protesting the state's refusal to pay them enough

Shaaria' Mohammed Khaamis, the main street in Rabat

The CCCL had a welcoming dinner for us in the lobby of the main building, which is 18th century traditional Andalusian/ Moroccan architecture

Arrival

 

I have arrived! Morocco is beautiful, warm, and sunny! I have to confess to already walking down to the beach in Rabat, as pictured above. My flight went well, despite a two hour delay because of the snow in New York. I was lucky enough to sit next to Moroccan lawyer who lives in the United States, and he helped me practice my Arabic. I managed to order dinner from the flight attendant in Arabic! I already feel like I'm improving, after just a few hours here. I traveled with two other people on my program, and we managed to figure out the train, with help from friendly Moroccans. Looking out the window, flat expanses are covered in verdant green vegetation on the inland side, and the clear azure ocean laps along the coast, its color blending into the blue, cloudless sky. The three of us shared a Harry Potter- style train booth, complete with the sweets cart passing by.

On the train, we met a Moroccan man traveling from Casablanca to Asila who  studied English in school between 1992 and 1994, during a brief period when it was widely taught in Moroccan schools before they reverted back to French and taught more Arabic. Somehow he managed to remember a lot of his English, and taught us some key Arabic phrases while dusting off his English.

We finally arrived in Rabat around lunchtime, and checked into our hotel. We have a week of orientation before meeting the host families we will be staying with. We decided to plunge right in with a fabulous lunch of almost-street food, pictured below. Most of the food was deep-fried, so I figured that probably killed all the bacteria! The fish was fresh and flavorful, and the fried eggplant was especially tasty. I took a pre-emptive Tums, but so far so good. Then we walked around the medina, which is the old city of Rabat. A tall castle-like wall surrounds it, setting it apart from the more modern city around it. Shopkeepers stand on every corner, selling everything from fresh beef (nearly whole and on display!) to Ugg boots. Simply walking down the street, I feel like I can absorb the living energy around me everywhere. The day is not over yet, but it's been a wonderful start to life in Morocco.

View from the train

Lunch in the medina- a feast!

Walking down the street in the medina

I'm no expert, but I guess that means it's fresh?

The beach

 

Departure

As-salaamu aleikum! I am excited to be returning to my blog to record my newest adventures-- a semester abroad in Rabat, Morocco. As I sit in the airport in New York waiting for my delayed flight to board, snow is falling outside and the sky is darkening. I can't wait to get to the warm(er) weather in Morocco, where lows are in the forties instead of the teens! I'm thinking about all the advice that past participants have given me about life in Morocco with both anticipation and anxiety about everything from the giant spiders to the fabulous food. Hopefully I'll encounter more from the latter category!

I'm going on a program run by SIT that focuses on issues of migration and transnational identity. Although I've taken two years of formal Arabic, most Moroccans speak French or the Moroccan dialect of Arabic, which is very different from what I've studied. Fortunately, I will take intensive classes in both the dialect and formal Arabic through my program, and I hope to improve my language skills significantly. I'll be living with a host family in the medina, which is the old part of the city. I look forward to exploring the city and the rest of the country as well. At the end of the program, I have the opportunity to work on an Independent Study Project, where I will conduct in-depth on-the-ground research on the topic of my choice. I know I will learn so much in Morocco, about both myself and the world around me. Thank you for supporting me on this journey.

Back in Business!

I promised in my first post to detail all my adventures, beyond just Vietnam, and since my return over a year ago, there have been many. I now stand on the edge of the next four years of my life, as I head to Columbia University at the end of August. I look forward to living in New York, with the best shopping, eating, and internship opportunities! I plan to study economics to build a base for an MBA and career in microfinance. Inspired by my work with Kiva in Vietnam and Grameen Foundation in DC, I developed a business plan with a friend for a microfinance bank. This spring, the plan won the Yale Bulldog Business Challenge, the only business competition for high school students. The plan is constantly developing, but you can learn more about Sunshine Bank at www.younoodle.com/startups/sunshine_bank.

On a related note, the same friend and I, as co-presidents of the NCS International Club, hosted NCS’s first ever Student Summit on Sustainable Solutions to Poverty (www.ncs.cathedral.org/studentsummit) on May 21^st. We invited high school students from the DC area to hear from over twenty speakers about sustainable ways to address the core issues of poverty. Highlights include an inspiring address from Alex Counts, president of Grameen Foundation, on the importance of persistence and creativity in the fight against poverty; former National Security Advisor Bud McFarlane’s speech giving insightful background and analysis on the different ways governments and individuals have tried to address poverty in the past; and from USAID, Holly Wise’s talk questioning the meaning of “sustainable,” and encouraging us to think inside, outside, and around the box.

This summer, however, I am taking a break from microfinance to focus on what may be my last summer kayaking. After difficult races in April at National Team Trials (Chula Vista, CA), two demanding weeks of camp at the Olympic Training Center in June (Lake Placid, NY), and two stressful days of racing at the Lake Placid International Regatta in July, all the hard work paid off. I qualified for the Junior Worlds team (www.usack.org), and will be racing in the K4 500m in Brandenburg, Germany at the end of July. For now, I’m headed back up to Lake Placid for two more weeks of training before Junior Worlds. I hope to keep you updated, so wish me luck!

Won the K1 500m at Lake Placid International Regatta, July 2011, Photocredit Blaise Rhodes